Noel Chapman: Case study
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| I feel very lucky to have gotten Noel Chapman as my mentor in my third year of studying Fashion and Textiles. Not only does he have a lot of experience in the industry but he is a well rounded person having worked with other companies, writing books and selling his own work all around the world. Coincidently the first project I did in my third year was something that is currently a big part of his work now; Indigo. He is an incredibly busy man travelling across the world whilst juggling several projects. |
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| Noel Chapman Indigo Rug (Antique Textiles) |
Noel was busy finalising Spring summer 2017 work before his clients went on holiday for the Chinese new year, he was also then off to Florence at the end of January. He has been freelancing for most of his life. Personally I have dreamed about doing this, but it's true when they say it's now what you know, it's who you know and therefore building contacts is important in this industry. Noel also had a few periods of full-time employment.
"My degree (1st Class Hons) was in Fashion Textiles at Liverpool University after I completed an extended placement at Jean Muir before working for Japanese designer Yuki.
After I set up on my own, down in both knitwear and woven collections I also did consultancy for a large Fashion/Textile Co in Japan after an introduction by Yuki. Eventually I specialised in trends and knitwear and always did part-time visiting lecturing until 1995 when I was asked by Colchester Institute to help set up Art & Design courses in Mauritius, where I lived for 2 years. After that I was asked by FDS to set a studio for them in London, which I ran for about 3 years, building a design team and taking turnover from $40million US Dollars to $400million. I left after being headhunted by a HK based Knitwear company and did a similar turn-around for their business before internal changes within the company. The new boss decided that I had got them the new customers they wanted so they could dispense with me! So I went back to freelance and once of my clients in Denmark (ONLY, part of the Bestseller Group) later offered me a job with them, helping setting up a London office for them and I spent 2 years travelling back and forth between Denmark and London 2 to 3 times a month. When they too had a reshuffle, new management decided to close the London Studio and change design direction, so I left and went back to Freelance again. Since then I have worked with factories in HK and China, offering Trend and Design Services. On the back of travelling approximately 3 times a year to China for my client I have been searching out vintage indigo textiles which I collect and sell at various specialist London Fairs."
Career Path:
SDD Designer ONLY (Bestseller Group, Denmark)
* Designer for Knitwear and Jerseywear, working with the design and sales teams in Denmark and Europe.
* Contributing to forecasting and trends/themes.
* Working closely with suppliers in Asia to improve the quality and speed of research and development of offer samples.
* Visiting trades shows and fairs in Europe and Asia for Market and Creative Intelligence.
* Contributing to forecasting and trends/themes.
* Working closely with suppliers in Asia to improve the quality and speed of research and development of offer samples.
* Visiting trades shows and fairs in Europe and Asia for Market and Creative Intelligence.
Creative Director Treasure Step International Ltd
Treasure Step International Ltd, Creative Director/Design and Market Intelligence Consultant for US & European customer base, A.X.Armani Exchange, Armani Jeans, Marmax, Raffi Linea Uomo, Tommy Hilfiger, Tommy Jeans, Hilfigger Girl, Calvin Klien/CK Jeans, Seven Jeans, Karstadt, Polo, Mexx, Marmax, Quicksilver, Kellwood, American Blue, Gottfried & Paul, etc, and helping to establish London sales/design office and European customer liaison. UK customers, Belinda Robinson, Clements Ribiero, Tania, Goat, Miss LaLa, Sara Berman, Madeleine Press, and House of Fraser, etc.
April 2002 - 2004 Formed Noel Chapman Associates Ltd, a London based design studio working in association with the Wong Sing Hing Group (Treasure Step International), in Hong Kong and Swinnerton International in New York. Working with my creative teams we provided Creative Direction, Trend Forecasting and Analysis, Colour Direction, Yarn Development and Swatches to the group. We worked closely with leading US stores on private label brands. Existing customers included; Victoria’s Secret, AX Armani Exchange, Central Park West, May Company, Sag Harbour, JC Penney, Casual Corner, Brooks Brothers and Abercrombie and Fitch. New business generated included Raffi Linea Uomo and Dillards, for whom we created a number of best selling men's sweaters. New business for the Supreme division of the group alone. for Fall 04/05 estimated between 7 and 11 million US$.
Noel's books are:
Careers in Art & Design - Published by Kogan Page
Careers in Fashion - Published by Kogan Page
Creative Fashion Drawing - Published by Arcturus - a collaboration with Judith Cheek
Secrets of Fashion Drawing - Published by Arcturus - a collaboration with Judith Cheek
"I am currently researching a book on Chinese Folk Textiles - this will be at least 2 years away!"
"I’ve recently written a review of the new book London Couture 1923-1975: British Luxury, for the V&A/Bloomsbury publication Luxury - Volume 2, which is about to be published, so you might want to look out for it."
It has been an incredible experience to learn all about my mentor Noel Chapman and gaining valuable feedback and advice from him, despite being very busy. I hope to keep in touch with him upon graduating and hopefully learning much more from what he has done.
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